Ok, so this is confession time. I have
to admit that I find researching and reading about hats and hat
making almost as much fun, and as addictive as making hats.
Below, you will find an extensive list of references, both
printed and on-line, and shopping sources for your
mini-millinery projects.
References
Materials
From
the Bookshelf
The following books are some of the favorites
on my bookshelf. I wish I could tell you where I got them
all, but unfortunately, never kept track. I have given you
the isbn number where available, so that you can check with your
local bookstore. If I know of a source, I have given that
too. Also, the information given about each book is
strictly my personal opinion of how each book was useful to me
in developing my hat making techniques and patterns.
In developing my line of miniature hats, I
found it necessary to develop each pattern I use, thru trial and
error, making many samples, and refining the design as I went
along. While there were some miniature hat making books
and patterns available on the market, I found that I was usually
not satisfied with either the scale of the patterns given, the
fit of the various pieces, or needed to adapt the pattern to
work with the construction technique that I prefer to use.
That doesn't mean that the books available are not a good
learning source. They will help you become familiar with
the different basic shapes needed to create a specific brim or
crown shape, and also will give you lots of ideas regarding
period of fashion, and different ways to trim your hats.
Books are grouped by general subject.
Books
on Miniature Hat making
Mini Millinery,
by
Janna Joseph - copyright 1980
20 page paperback booklet, with introduction,
construction techniques and 6 different hat patterns. Also
has resources for supplies, but since this book is well over 20
years old, I don't know how many of these sources are still
current.
Victorian Mini Chapeaux,
by Emanjay, (Marie Wheat)
37 pages, paperback. This book contains
patterns for 14 different hats from 1840 - 1890 in 1/12
scale. Includes both fabric and straw hat techniques.
While this book does not provide extensive instruction, the basic
shapes are there for a variety of different styles, and Ms.
Wheat's patterns are well known for their authenticity.
Available from House of Caron.
Edwardian and Gibson Girl
Mini Chapeaux, by Emanjay,
(Marie Wheat )
40 pages, paperback. By the same author as
above. Includes 14 patterns form 1890-1910. Again, few
instructions, but great resource for general shapes, and
construction of historically accurate designs. Available
from House of Caron
Millinery Magic,
by
Barbara Hillier Smith
32 pages, paperback. This book includes instructions
for both straw and fabric hats, and instructions for
hat stands and hat boxes. Ms Hillier uses a cloth mending
tape in her construction which I found was difficult to locate,
and harder yet to use, but the book does include 21 different hat
patterns, and some interesting embellishment techniques.
Scale is a bit large for use on some 1/12" dolls, so make a
sample hat when using these patterns.
Books
on Hat making for Larger Dolls
Hat Making for Dolls
1855-1916, by Clare Blau - pub. Hobby House Press
32 pages, paperback. 18 hat patterns for
creating mid-19th century to early-20th century hats. All
for larger dolls, but can be reduced. Primarily bonnet
styles. Most interesting is the reprinting of articles on hats
from Harpers, Godey's , Delineator, and Doll's Dressmaking
magazines from the late 1800's complete with wonderful
illustrations. Also, a reprint of a fascinating article
"Employments for Women - No. 6, which gives high
recommendation of millinery as a suitable profession for proper
young women of the day!
How to Make Doll Hats 'n
Bonnets - Scott Publications
12 pages, paperback, with pull out pattern
section. Again, mostly cloth bonnet patterns for larger
dolls. But there are 12 pages of old hat illustrations from
the 1979-1880 editions of the German publication, Die Modenwelt
that are just lovely, and provide enough inspiration to keep you
going for months on end.
Books
on Hat making Crafts
Hats in Miniature, by
Lyn
Waring - Sterling Publishing Co
128 pages, paperback. Now before you all
email me that I put this one in the wrong section, this book is
not 1/12 scale Miniature. The hats in this book are much
larger than what we all refer to as miniature, but still not
people size. (head circ. 8-9".) Loved this book,
which gives many different construction techniques, patterns
etc. Most interesting was a two page layout of every brim
used in the book overlaid on a grid, showing how just the
slightest variation in a piece can dramatically change the
finished design. Beautifully printed, beautifully
photographed, and someday, when I have time, I am going to do
every hat in this book just for display! ISBN
0-8069-4265-7
The Hat Book, Creating
Hats for Every Occasion, by Juliet Bawden
144 pages, paperback. This book demonstrates
many creative techniques for embellishing or re-making
"people hats" using a wide array of trimming and
embellishment techniques. Lots of beautiful color
photographs, and great instruction. Some incredibly creative
ideas here, primarily modern, few Victorian era styles.
ISBN 0-937274-73-9
Historical
Literature on Millinery
Love these two books!!! Fascinating
insight on not only hats of the miniature Victorian and Edwardian
era, but the entire culture of the times!
Millinery, A Complete
Course, edited and reprinted by Viv's Ribbons & Laces
379 pages, paperback. This fascinating book
is a complete reprinting of the home study course in Millinery
originally offered by the Woman's Institute of Domestic Arts and
Sciences Department of Millinery in 1915. More hat making information that you would ever need to know, and most of this
does not really apply to miniature hats, but this is so
fascinating none the less! My favorite chapter is
"Millinery Recipes, which contains the most incredible
concoctions for cleaning feathers, velvet, beaver, straw,
etc. The complete course covers every conceivable hat making
material, or application, and includes the final examination
questions!!! (Most of which I could still not answer even
after reading the book several times.) ISBN 0-9631893
Edwardian Hats, The Art
of Millinery, 1909, by mme. Anna Ben-Yusuf
256 pages,
paperback. Another fascinating home study course completely
reproduced. Again, much technical information that can't be
applied to miniatures, but many wonderful line illustrations from
the era. Also includes notes and illustrations from Correct
Dress: Fall & Winter 1908-9. Interesting chapters
covering fabulously detailed embellishments, ribbon techniques,
etc.
ISBN
0-914046-15-2
Books
on Ribbon
Techniques
The Wish Booklet, Vol.
XXIV Fashions In Trim, by Susan Sirkis
30 pages, paperback. Susan is a nationally
recognized doll maker, and miniaturist. This volume of her ever
popular Wish Booklet Series contains dozens of techniques
for embellishment using ribbon, lace, beading,
embroidery, and so much more, all with the miniature doll maker in
mind. A real treasure. ISBN 0-913786-24-1.
Available at The Dollmaker's Workshop. (see below under
supplies for website link)
The Artful Ribbon,
by
Candace Kling
Ok, if I had to pick the most beautiful book of
the lot, this one wins hands down. 144 pages of the most
luscious color photographs of antique ribbon work, and step by
step instructions to reproduce most of the techniques shown.
Author uses new materials and vintage techniques to make elegant
roses, pansies, fuchsias, etc. all in larger scale, but many
of these wonderful techniques can be adapted. Find a cozy
chair and plan to spend a couple of hours drooling over this
one!!!! ISBN 1-57120-020-7 Recently published and available
at most online book vendors, but pricey too, so I hunted mine up
on ebay!!!
Books
on Hat
Collecting and Fashion References
Vintage Hats &
Bonnets , by Susan Langley
405 pages, hardbound. Published as a
complete reference and price guide for hat collectors, this book
contains thousands of color and black and white photographs of
antique hats from private collections and auction, and beautifully
reproduced fashion plates from various turn of the century fashion
magazines. A wonderful resource for research and
inspiration. One of my favorite features is the wonderful
collection of original photographs of antique hats worn by their
owners!!! ISBN 1-57432-028-9 Available at Barnes &
Nobel online, $24.95
Shoes, Hats and Fashion
Accessories, by Carol Belanger Grafton
123 pages, paperback. A pictorial archive of
2,020 illustrations from 1850 to 1940. Black and white line
illustrations and wood cuttings of nothing but hats, purses,
shoes and other fashion accessories. These
meticulously rendered illustrations have been taken from Harper's
Bazaar, London Illustrated News, La Mode Ilustree, the Delineator,
and Life, as well as fashion catalogs from Jordan, marsh &
company and other merchants. All copyright free images, so
if you can use them for a variety of other projects too!
ISBN 0-486-40103-0
La Mode
Illustree, edited
by Florence Leniston
52 pages,
paperback. 52 pages of beautifully rendered hand colored
fashion plates from La Mode Illustree, the most popular French
fashion periodical in the 2nd half of the 19th century. Each
page features two female figures modeling the style of the day,
and nearly all of course wear the appropriate hat to compliment
their ensemble. Additionally, some pages feature only hat
styles. Lovely.
ISBN
0-486-29819-1 Available at The Dollmaker's Workshop.
(see below under supplies for website link)
Victorian and Edwardian
Fashions from la Mode Illustree, edited by Joanne Ollan
212 pages, paperback. over 1000 black and
white illustrations originally published in la Mode Illustree,
1860 to 1914. Fabulously detailed illustrations, and many
pages featuring the millinery styles of the day. Wonderful
resource for dressmaking as well as hat making. ISBN
0-486-29711-X Available at The Dollmaker's Workshop.
(see below under supplies for website link)
Internet
Reference Resources
Rather than try to describe what is available at
each of these sites, I am just going to give you the name, and
link, and let you explore on your own. The first one alone
could take you months to explore, but I promise that they
are all worth the trip!!!! Enjoy!
The
Costumer's Manifesto Hat Resources Page
http://www.costume.org
The
Costume Gallery
http://www.costumegallery.com
Antique
& Vintage Dress Gallery
http://www.antiquedress.com
Vintage
Hats 4 Sale at Cheap Frills
http://www.ocnsignal.com/cfr-mil.htm
Fine
Vintage Shopping 1860-1960
http://www.1860-1960.com/shop.html
Antique
Photographs of 19th & Early 20th Century Hats & Bonnets
www.missmary.com/emporium/pfm/easter_bonnet/index.shtml
Victorian
Millinery
http://www.victorianmillinery.com
Ebay
This
is one of my favorite resources to research just about anything is
ebay. Most listings have wonderful photos, and good
descriptions. To find antique hats, use the link below:
Collectibles:Vintage
Clothing, Accessories:Accessories (Pre-1980):Hats:Women
Shopping
Resources for Miniature Hat making Supplies
The
Dollmaker's Workshop
Nearly
everything used in my tutorial is available from michelle Mahler
at the dollmaker's workshop. Michelle stocks a wonderful
array of silk fabrics and ribbons, French cotton laces, imported
trims and braids, bunka trim, no hole beads in every color
imaginable, mini pleaters in three sizes, the mini iron by Clover,
and many of the books listed above. Her site has an easy to
use shopping cart program, and her goods are always packaged and
shipped with the utmost care. http://www.minidolls.com
Cam
Creations
This online store carries a
vast array of silk ribbons in all sizes and colors, including variegated
and ombre colors, and edge dyed, French wire edge
ribbons. Also crinoline, and many ribbon technique and
embroidery books. http://www.stitching.com/camcreations/index.html
House
of Caron
Carries the Emanjay hat and
costume pattern booklets, as well as several different lines of
molds for miniature dolls.
http://www.houseofcaron.com
And yes, I know that you all
want to know where I get my feathers. Well, since I live in
a small town, with virtually no shopping, I rely on my computer to
do my shopping for me, and have learned that the first place to
look for anything is on ebay!!! The vendors change, as does
the selection, and the prices, but if you are diligent, willing
to do the footwork, and be patient, you can find most anything you
need. For small feathers, look in the fly-tying
supplies. I also find great bargains there on antique laces
and trims, and occasionally fabrics, but use care when purchasing
these items to make sure that the condition is well described, and
the number one rule, is ASK BEFORE YOU BUY!!!!
Well, this
concludes my final lesson in miniature hat making. I hope
that you have found the information both useful and fun. I
would appreciate hearing your comments on the tutorial so that I
can make necessary improvements and changes in upcoming
tutorials. I would love to see some of your creations,
so email me a picture or two. Please take a moment to sign my
guest book. Thanks for visiting,
and happy hat making.
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My
Miniature Doll Website
Thank you for visiting my site,
and taking an interest in my class.
Just as a gentle reminder,
This class has been designed
to help you learn the basics of hat making.
Please visit this site as often as you like,
to help you with your hat making skills.
This class, photos, & instructions are
copy-righted & are not to be used
as a tutorial of your own.
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